How to Assemble a DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit

Still deciding whether a DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure is the right one for your setup, or did you already purchase one? Maybe our assembly video will help or did help you decide by showing you how easy our DIY setups are to assemble.

Beware of any enclosure dupes out there; Carl is the originator of the DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure!

Looking for instructions on how to assemble Carl's original DIY enclosure? Check out this video. 

The video will take you through the main assembly steps, which include:

• What’s included
• Tools needed
• Building the frame
• Hanging the enclosure cover
• Attaching the golf impact screen to the frame
• Installing add-ons

Our DIY enclosures are great for residential golf simulator setups as they can be used for golf and other activities: just ask Carl’s Place customer DJ. If you’re still unsure of what size to order, check out our article on how to choose the best size and how we can custom finish screens, or reach out to our customer service team for more info.

Need the DIY Enclosure manual?

HOW TO PURCHASE EMT FOR YOUR DIY KIT

An important thing to know when purchasing a DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit from Carl’s Place is that 1-inch EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing/Conduit) is required to complete these frames. With a DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit you have the option to add on a pipe framing kit with the EMT you need to construct the enclosure. Alternatively, your kit will include all details on what lengths and quantities of EMT are required and you can source them from a local hardware store.

NOTE: 1" EMT is the trade size, but the actual outer diameter is 1.163 inches. If you are sourcing your own pipes, your cut sheet will also note this.

In this quick article, we’ll answer the most common questions about sourcing EMT for your DIY Backyard Theater or DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure Project.

What is 1″ EMT?

Electrical Metal Tubing (EMT) is a zinc-coated steel tube that is primarily used in electrical applications. It is strong and lightweight, making it the perfect material for building your own golf hitting cage or outdoor movie screen. 1″ EMT is what fits perfectly in the fitting connectors that are included with your kit. Other products such as PVC and Rigid tubing are not recommended with our kits.

Where can I find 1″ EMT?

EMT can be found in the electrical section of any local hardware store such as Home Depot or Lowe’s and is typically sold in 10-foot tubes.

How do I cut and mark the 1″ EMT?

Your kit includes instructions for the quantities and lengths of EMT required for the specific design of your project. EMT can be easily cut to length with a sawzall style saw or a standard chop saw. From a safety perspective, please be sure to wear proper eye and ear protection when using any cutting tools.

Safety is key! To prevent cuts to the hand and to make assembly even easier, we recommend using a file and deburring tool to clean up the edges of the pipe once cut. The provided diagram will make it simple to mark and assemble your frame.

1″ EMT is a readily available and inexpensive material that you can easily source for your DIY projector screen project. Consult our resources section for more project tips and ideas.

Video Transcript

Please note, this transcript is for reference only. For complete guidance on assembling your DIY Golf Simulator Enclosure Kit, please read the assembly manual, which is available on the DIY Enclosure webpage.

-----

At Carl’s Place, our Golf Simulator Enclosures are designed to be user-friendly and easy to assemble. In this video, we will walk you through the setup process for our DIY Enclosure Kit, as well as provide you with some tips and tricks that help along the way.

What's in the box

You’ll want to start by organizing your kit by size and shape. Your DIY kit will include: one inch steel fittings, a black nylon enclosure cover an impact screen, cable receivers, ball bungees, and releasable zip ties.

Optional add-ons for the kit include: a pipe framing kit, vinyl ceiling baffles, foam inserts, net wall extensions, and a back cover kit. If you purchased a back cover kit, you’ll receive additional fittings, pipes and instructions to complete that assembly. If you purchased your DIY kit without the optional pipe framing included, you’ll need to purchase the EMT from a local hardware store and cut it to size. Detailed assembly instructions are also included to help guide you step-by-step in the assembly process.

Tools needed

Make sure to have your tools handy - You’ll need at least one ½ inch “combination wrench" or socket wrench), one 3/16 hex key or bit, a measuring tape, a rubber mallet, pliers, and two 8-foot tall step ladders.

Assemble the Frame

Once you have your workspace prepped, it’s time to assemble your frame. Be sure to reference your specific Frame Assembly Sheet included with your kit, that details the dimensions to the specific sized kit that you ordered.

Before you start assembling the frame, make sure that your fitting screws are loose, so that you can insert the EMT pipes without interference.

Begin assembling your frame by connecting any of the “C” fittings, or straight fittings, to the appropriate EMT pipes marked on your cut sheet.

Take note that the pipe is inserted all the way into the fittings. Tighten the fittings to the EMT using a ½ inch wrench.

Start by building the frame from the floor up. Take one of your assembled width pipes and two of your depth pipes and lay them out in a U-shape on the floor. The two included “L” fittings will be assembled at the front of the enclosure, with the “cable fittings” at the rear.

Next, insert the EMT pipes for your height. Put the “three way connection fittings with the nub” on the top of each rear height pipe with the nub facing the rear of the enclosure.

When assembling the top-half of the frame, it’s important to work from the back of the enclosure to the front. Point the bolts on all C fittings to face toward the rear of the enclosure.
(show width and depth pipes being inserted with F3 fittings on the front of enclosure)

Double check that all fitting screws are tightened down and complete the frame assembly by measuring the frame to make sure that all dimensions match the dimensions specified in your diagram.

Hang the enclosure cover

The next step is to attach your fabric enclosure cover. Orient the cover with the grommeted edge aligned with the back of the frame and all hook-and-loop flaps facing the inside of the frame. Place the cover over the top of the completed frame.

Attach all the flaps to the frame before installing with ball bungees. It's important to attach the flaps in this order: first, the inside corner flaps; second, the bottom flaps; third, the side flaps; and fourth, the top flaps. Note that on the side flaps, you should attach the hook fasteners to the closest loop strip. This leaves the rear loop strip accessible for the optional net walls. Tuck excess material and smooth down any edges. (It’s easier to make adjustments now versus after you pull the fabric taut with bungees.)

Finish by securing the grommeted edge to the frame with ball bungees. Insert the loop end of the bungee into a grommet, threading it through until the ball stops it. Wrap the cord loop around the frame tubing and hook it over the ball to create a loop. Make sure the bungees face the back of the enclosure.

Install Baffles (Optional)

If you purchased optional vinyl baffles, now is the time to install them.

Hang the baffles with the matte side facing the front of the enclosure, and stretch them to each side of the top of the frame using either bungees or zip ties.

Note that you’ll have to pull back the hook-and-loop fasteners of the top flap to access the frame. Baffles can be spaced at any preferred distance away from the screen, but typically are most effective 1-1.5 feet apart.

Attach the Impact screen

Now it’s time to attach your impact screen to the frame. Be careful unfolding your screen to keep it from touching the floor and becoming dirty. The front of the screen should be oriented with the Carl’s Place logo at the top left of the enclosure.

Attach each top corner of the screen to the enclosure frame. Use 2 zip ties in each top corner (one connecting in each direction). Continue by loosely hanging zip ties across the top of the screen.

Now it’s time to attach the bottom of the screen using the cable. On one of the rear corner fittings, locate the small hole at the base of the fitting.

On one bottom side of the screen, insert the cable through the fitting and secure it with four turns of the cable receiver. Repeat on the other side. You may need to loosen the first receiver if you can’t get the second receiver threaded. Tighten each end of the cable just until taught. Use a pliers to hold the cable and prevent it from spinning while using a 3/16 hex key to tighten the receiver. Take care to not overtighten. If you notice the frame start to bend, loosen up the cable.

Revisit the top zip ties to get the screen hanging correctly. Starting at the corners, tighten each zip tie just until the bottom of the screen is level with the floor and not pulling up in any areas.

Add zip ties to the remaining grommets, tightening only enough to maintain an even gap between the screen and the pipe. Zip ties should not stretch the screen.

On the bottom grommets of the screen make sure to wrap the zip tie under and around the bottom pipe.

Recheck the tension on the screen, confirming that the bottom edge of the screen makes contact with the floor, and that the zip ties aren’t causing any pulling or stretching of the screen. As the screen relaxes with use, you may need to fine-tune the zip ties to keep the screen barely touching the floor.

Once the screen is hanging correctly, you can cut the zip tie tails for a cleaner look.

If you did not purchase the optional foam inserts, continue by attaching the screen flaps to the enclosure walls and ceiling with the hook and loop strips. If you purchased the optional foam inserts, you’ll install those now.

Install Foam Inserts

The longest 80-inch foam pieces will be installed at each bottom side corner of the enclosure, with shorter foam pieces on top reaching the ceiling. Install the foam with the narrow edge against the frame, and wrap the flap around the foam to secure it with the hook and loop strips.

Make sure to keep the foam from interfering with the hook-and-loop connection.

Use the remaining foam to fill in the top edge of the screen flaps.

Review your work and reattach the hook and loop to smooth out any lines as necessary.

Further installation

At this point, you can install any additional add-ons to your existing enclosure setup. Adding turf to a hard floor is a great way to minimize bounce. Note that you’ll want to be sure that any turf added fits either fully inside - or fully outside your enclosure frame, to ensure the frame sits flat and the cable remains level with the floor. You can also purchase a Carl’s Place hitting mat to add to your setup, as well as net walls to help protect against shanked shots.

If the space where you are installing your enclosure has windows or ambient light coming from behind the screen, Carl’s Place also offers a back cover kit, which preserves a crisp, bright image. See the install of the back cover here.

Setup complete

Your setup is complete - and you can begin using your new DIY golf simulator enclosure! We recommend using new golf balls that are free from any scuffs or permanent marker, to maximize the life of your screen and to keep it from marking up.

We want to see your new golf setup! Go to www.carlofet.com/share-with-us to send us pics, videos, or reviews of your brag worthy setup!

Thanks for watching this video! If you have any questions or feedback feel free to shoot us an email, give us a call, or contact us on our website. Be sure to subscribe to our channel for more videos on building, using, and enhancing your own golf simulator enclosure.